Sailing has been part of our lives for years, because lying around never worked for us. This was our third time sailing in Greece, this time around Lefkada: a week, six islands, a few small harbours and one night we will remember for a long time.
How it started
By chance. A friend invited Tomek to a YKP Białystok regatta in Croatia. He went partly out of curiosity and came back with his head full of wind. Since then we sail together - mostly in Croatia, more and more often in Greece.
What the water gives us
- Places seen from the water. We get to know islands and coves differently than from land, and some of them can only be reached by boat.
- A different place every day. An island, a cove, a marina - and the trip between them is part of the pleasure, not just getting there.
- Adrenaline. In a strong wind the yacht comes alive, and so do we.
- Always learning something. Why a boat sails at all and how to make it faster, ropes, knots, mooring, entering a harbour, the rules. We are really into it.
- People and local life. We explore the small islands, eat in family tavernas and get to know the local culture.
The route
Day by day
Lefkada - picking up the yacht
On Saturday we pick up the yacht at D-Marin Lefkas, the Dream Yacht Charter base. The marina sits right by the town of Lefkada and has about 900 berths. Our yacht is an Oceanis 51.1 called Amphitrite - in mythology the wife of Poseidon, so she should get along with the sea. Shopping, unpacking, checking the gear and the first evening in port.
There were eight of us, and ten would have fitted - the yacht takes up to twelve. Five cabins, plus the skipper's cabin (empty in our case), and three bathrooms, each with a shower and an electric toilet. No pumping by hand, which is quite a comfort.
Meganisi - Vathy
On Sunday morning the weather is so-so, a bit of drizzle, nothing serious. We sail to Meganisi, a small island right next to Lefkada. Vathy is a village around a deep bay: a few lanes, colourful houses and tavernas right on the water. We eat at Stavros Family Taverna, which Stavros runs with his dad.
We moor at the town quay and pay a few euros for the night. There are a few posts with water and power, but quite far away, and the power doesn't work... On the other hand, getting rid of rubbish is no problem :) On the right as you enter the harbour there is also a private marina, but if there's room in the village, why not :)
Kalamos - George's island
The next night on Kalamos. In the harbour we are welcomed by George, the island's unofficial king. He catches the lines, sorts out the yachts and invites everyone to his taverna on the quay - and has done so for years. Plenty of yachts, but we are already past the season. That's how we usually sail in Greece: fewer people, free berths in the harbours, and the weather still lovely.
We walk to the lighthouse and then on a long walk to Agrapidia beach. We spend the evening on the yacht.
Kastos - the anchor that didn't hold
The forecast says the weather is turning - and on the water the forecast is everything - so we make a quick hop to Kastos. It's a small, quiet island, and the pontoon has room for a few boats.
In the afternoon we explore the island: stone houses, an olive grove and turquoise coves.
At night the wind picks up. We are just coming back from the only taverna that was open when we see that our anchor isn't really holding. We run. We were moored first, so we leave the pontoon first - and straight away we can see the neighbours have the same problem and are gently bumping into the pontoon.
We lift the anchor, which on the way gets tangled in the lines of a buoy. We don't drop it a second time. We moor alongside the quay in the ferry's spot - on one condition: up at 5:30, because at 6:00 the ferry wants its place back :)
Nobody got hurt, and it was a proper adventure.
In the morning we motor to the cove right next door, by the harbour entrance, drop anchor and catch up on sleep. After breakfast we sail on.
Atokos - the „Island of Pigs”
We sail to Atokos, an uninhabited island between Kastos and Ithaca. A beach, a swim in the cove and a path up the hill with a view of the neighbouring islands and our yacht at anchor. Wild pigs wander along the beach, right next to people, looking for something to eat between the stones. There is no taverna, shop or water on the island, so you bring everything with you.
Ithaca - Kioni
For the night we sail to Ithaca, to Kioni. A small village in a green bay, stone houses running down to the water and old windmills at the harbour entrance.
We explore Kioni on foot. Friends from the crew rent a scooter and ride around a good part of Ithaca, while we walk over the hill to the little church of St Nicholas (Mavrouna) above a cove. The climbs are steep, but the views are beautiful and the weather is perfect for walking.
On the way we pass plenty of cats and, surprisingly, a few dogs that greet us with loud barking :) A little way past the harbour it gets much less touristy and much more local. We walk down to the church one way and come back another - a bit of a detour, but a pleasant one.
In the evening we sit at En Plo, a rooftop bar by the marina: a lovely view, good drinks and the company of our friends - and of each other :) Then another evening on the yacht, just as pleasant.
In the morning a walk and a swim at Plakoutses beach. The sea is still warm, 22-23 degrees.
The Papanikolis cave
Before Sivota we stop at the Papanikolis cave on the south-west coast of Meganisi. You can't reach it on foot, only from the sea. We stop close to the entrance, lower the dinghy and take turns going inside. During the Second World War the Greek submarine Papanikolis is said to have hidden here - hence the name.
Sivota
We spend the last but one night in Sivota, a village at the end of a deep, sheltered bay in the south of Lefkada. Many restaurants here have their own pontoons: you moor there in exchange for the proverbial dinner, and you get power, water and a place for your rubbish. We moor alongside at Taverna Stavros and have dinner there too.
In the morning we go for breakfast at Sivota Bakery Cafe: healthy, delicious breakfasts in a great spot. For drinks we recommend Liotrivi: a big choice and very good drinks.
Back to Lefkada
The last day is the harbour in Lefkada: cleaning, handing back the yacht and a last dinner in town. On Saturday morning we drive to Athens and from there home.
